| Postcard from Oakland |
| Happy Tuesday and welcome to Grape Rush! This edition comes to you from Oakland, California, where ABV Ferments just wrapped ABV Vol. 4, it’s fourth wine summit. As someone who does not consider himself anything close to an expert in wine, there was so much to learn from the community of people who attended the event. Truly, the world of hybrid and native grape wines is fascinating. I walked away with a lot of thoughts and feelings. The multi-day event’s proximity to Napa was, of course, no coincidence. – For starters, it sits at the heart of the broader national industry, in a state that produces some 81% of wine in the United States. Wine production in California amounted to some 600 million gallons in 2022. – Second, virtually all of that wine is sourced from climate-challenged vitis vinifera grapes. California winegrowers are no strangers to climate-related challenges. Even still, very few of them openly talk about incorporating non-vinifera grapes into their rotations. – And third, by holding its event in Oakland, ABV Ferments is ostensibly calling out the obvious: The nearby wine industry is cursed by homogeneity. Many of the people in the profession can be because of certain privileges, including generational wealth, that contribute to a steep barrier to entry for people who don’t enjoy that benefit but still wish to participate in the millenia-old craft of winemaking. The theme of the summit has been W.A.T.E.R. (Who Assumes the Environmental Responsibility?). Read by takeaway from the event over on Grape Rush. I hope you enjoy! If you like what you’re reading, please share the newsletter link with your friends! And, as always, feel free to drop your thoughts to me at chase@graperush.co. |
| Sip-and-Paint |
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| In this edition of sticking wine prompts into an AI image-making tool, this is ‘a bottle of hybrid grape wine in the style of Mondrian.’ |
| New on Grape Rush Postcard from Oakland — Typically, when industry professionals gather to discuss the business of their craft, you’d call that event a conference. But this was something much different. This was, at its heart, communing. |
| What I’m Drinking |
| Writing about hybrid grapes leads me into a bunch of shops and bars to check out different bottles of wine. Here’s a sampling of what I’ve recently tried: Bioweingut Karl Renner, Thirsch Muscaris (2020) — Really delicious wine that’s got some fresh and bright fleshy fruit notes with exotic aromatics that include tropical fruits, lime blossom, lychee and lemon. North American Press, “The Maker” Buffalo Creek White Wine (2022) — A fabulous wine made by the incredibly interesting Matt Niess in California. This is made with La Crosse and Brianna grapes, and its got ripe tropical flavors that work in partnership with a rich texture and bright acidity. North American Press, San Francisco Bay Rosé “L’Amalgame” (2022) — Truly a transcendent wine made by Chris Renfro of The 280 Project. Sourced from more than 100 different grapes found in Woodside, California.Find a full list of wines I’m trying and places I visit by clicking here. |
| “Everyone has the ability to reimagine how their region can work with wine. And it’s really exciting because we get to use all the historical knowledge we already have to make it happen.”—Erin Rasmussen, founder of American Wine Project |
| The Back Label |
| In addition to tasting a bunch of interesting wine, I’ve also been doing some reading. Here are some of the items that caught my interest. “AI Can Identify Wine 100% of the Time. What Now?” Wine Enthusiast — Researchers in Switzerland have trained an artificial intelligence program to identify Bordeaux wines from specific estates and vintages with 100% certainty. “Whom Does Wine Belong To?” Alta Journal— Sydney Love writes about ABV Ferments, which tee’d up the group’s event that just took place in Oakland. “The theme for the summit is “W.A.T.E.R.,” which stands for “Who Assumes the Environmental Responsibility?,” a question that speaks to the Golden State at a complex moment when wildfires and drought are taking a heavy toll.” “For an emerging region, success with a grape like Chardonnay proves tricky.” Decanter — Elaine Chukan Brown writes about how recognition of a wine region outside its own borders often depends on its success with a well-known variety or a singular style. |
| Until next time… |
| Thanks for reading! If you liked what you saw, please share Grape Rush with your network and encourage them to subscribe! And if this newsletter landed in your inbox because someone forwarded it to you, sign yourself up by clicking here. Catch up on the most recent coverage by clicking here.Have a story idea tip? Wine recommendation? Send them to chase@graperush.co |